How To Pick a Healthy Pet Reptile

Reptiles in the pet trade are prone to being very stressed and sometimes ill, especially if they have not been cared for optimally. There are some specific things to watch out for when choosing a pet reptile to help ensure your reptile isn't sick before you even get it home.
Difficulty: Average
Time Required: 20 minutes

Here's How:

  1. Look at the overall body condition - reptiles should be well-fleshed and not emaciated looking. Avoid lizards that appear skinny or bony (watch for prominent hip bones, or visible tail bones), or that have abnormal swellings on the legs. Snakes should have a well rounded body and the backbone should not be visible. Turtles should have ample flesh between their neck and front legs.
  2. Look at the skin (and in the case of turtles, the shell). If the skin is excessively wrinkled and dull in appearance, the reptile is probably dehydrated. The skin should be supple and free of bites and scratches (these could form abscesses later on) and you should also check the belly for burns. Turtles should have firm shells with no defects; soft shells or shell defects are signs of serious illness.
  3. Check for overall cleanliness. If there is fecal material on the belly or back of the reptile, it is likely to have been kept in unsanitary and/or overcrowded condition. If there are feces on the back it may indicate that the reptile was too weak to get out from under stronger cage-mates (or it was kept in very overcrowded conditions).
  4. Check the vent area for dried feces or urates. If these are caked on the vent area it may indicate illness or parasite infestation.
  5. Check the eyes. They should be clean and clear and free of discharge or crusted material. Swollen eyes may indicate systemic illness, particularly in turtles.
  6. Watch out for runny noses or mucous around the nostrils. In some species salty deposits are normal.
  7. Check the mouth. The inside of most reptiles mouths are a healthy pink color, and smooth. A pale pink or greyish color in the mouth, or the presence of small yellow, white or green patches on the tongue or inside of the mouth are signs of systemic illness and/or mouth rot. Also be wary if the saliva is stringy or ropy looking.
  8. Check the rest of the head for any swelling or asymmetry (both sides of the head and jaw should look the same). Swelling or asymmetry of the jaws is can be indicator of metabolic bone disease or abscesses. Other lumps or swelling may be abscesses or indicate the presence of general infections or illness.
  9. Check for the presence of mites. These are tiny specks (may be black, dark brown or reddish brown, or orange) that move. Pay close attention to the head and neck and belly areas. While fairly easy to treat, they may indicate that the reptile has been stressed and/or kept in crowded or unsanitary conditions.
  10. Ask to handle the reptile. Check the strength of the reptile. A very docile, limp reptile is probably ill. Try to handle a variety of reptiles to get used to the normal muscle tone of reptiles. Turtles should strongly pull their legs away if grabbed. Snakes should be have good muscle tone and strength, as should lizards. Juveniles will naturally be less strong than adults. Weakness or shakiness is a sign of illness and twitches or tremors may indicate the presence of metabolic bone disease.
  11. Asses the reptiles behavior. Reptiles should appear bright, alert and responsive. Healthy reptiles generally resist being caught and initially may fight being held. A tame reptile may be easier to hold, but should still be alert and responsive. If a reptile appears lethargic and not responsive, it is most likely ill and weak. (One exception: reptiles kept in cool conditions will be slow and lethargic as a result, but these reptiles may also be stressed or ill due to the improper conditions).
  12. Look for signs of respiratory disease, including discharge from the eyes or nose, open mouthed breathing (this can also happen if the tank is too hot), or clicking or wheezing sounds when the reptile breathes.

Tips:

  1. Always try to find a captive bred reptile if possible. Wild caught reptile are likely to be extremely stressed and possibly ill as a result (they tend to be carrying a high parasite load at the very least).
  2. Avoid the temptation to "rescue" a reptile that is clearly ill or being looked after improperly. While it is a noble thing to do, consider that the one you buy will probably just be replaced with another that will be stressed and/or neglected in the same way. That is in addition to the cost of providing health care to the rescued reptile, and the potential heartache if your rescue dies. Do, however, consider reporting the seller to a local animal welfare authorities.
  3. Have everything you need set up completely at home before getting a reptile. Going to a new environment is stressful enough; you don't want to be fiddling with setting up a tank and getting temperatures right after bringing your reptile home. Have everything ready and "perfect" for the new arrival--this means you'll need to thoroughly research the needs of your pet well before you buy it and avoid impulse purchases.
  4. If a reptile appears to be in good condition, but is kept under poor conditions (wrong temperatures, improper lighting, overcrowding, dirty cage, etc.) be wary. The stress of improper care may make the reptile susceptible to problems that might surface later.
  5. Knowing about the proper care of your potential pet before you go shopping makes it possible to evaluate how well the reptile is being cared for by the seller.