1. How Can I Tell if My Snake is a Male or Female?
2. How to Find and Escaped Pet
3.Constricting Snakes
ANSWERS:
1. How Can I Tell if My Snake is a Male or Female?
Sexing Snakes Takes a Bit of Experience
Sometimes owners are curious if their snake is a male or female, but telling the difference is not a simple matter as male and female snakes look similar externally. However, with a bit of experience there are ways to tell, but these methods should be done by experienced keepers only. If you are a beginner and want to know the sex of your snake, please find an experienced keeper or vet to demonstrate for you, as the methods carry a risk of injury if done incorrectly.
Relevant Male Snake Anatomy
Male snakes have a pair of hemipenes (sex organs) that normally sit (inverted) inside the snake from the cloaca down along the tail on either side of the snake's midline.
Male snakes have a pair of hemipenes (sex organs) that normally sit (inverted) inside the snake from the cloaca down along the tail on either side of the snake's midline.
Visual Clues
Since the sex organs are held internally, sexing visually is difficult, but there are visible clues. Because of the presence of the hemipenes, these visual clues relate to the shape and lenght of the tail:
Since the sex organs are held internally, sexing visually is difficult, but there are visible clues. Because of the presence of the hemipenes, these visual clues relate to the shape and lenght of the tail:
- Male: tail thicker and longer than in females, and also tapers less evenly to the tip (thicker for a bit then suddenly thinning).
- Females: tail thinner and shorter than in males, and tapers smoothly, evenly and more quickly.
Probing
Probing a snake involves inserting a thin metal rod (probe) into the vent or cloaca. The probe can be inserted further in males due to the presence of the spaces in which the hemipenes sit. This method is best left to the pros because inserting the probe incorrectly can badly injure the snake.
Popping Probing a snake involves inserting a thin metal rod (probe) into the vent or cloaca. The probe can be inserted further in males due to the presence of the spaces in which the hemipenes sit. This method is best left to the pros because inserting the probe incorrectly can badly injure the snake.
In very young snakes, the hemipenes can often be visualized with a fairly simple maneuver called popping. It is recommended that you do not try this yourself either, though; if done incorrectly, the snake could be injured (or at best you might just get the sex wrong).
2. How to Find and Escaped Pet
Some exotic pets are pretty good escape artists, and are also good at avoiding capture. Here is a game plan to help you find a lost pet in your house.
Time Required: Variable
Here's How:
- Start your search near the cage and go from there.
- Check behind furniture along the baseboards.
- Check under the furniture.
- Check inside cabinets, drawers, shelves and bookcases. Check behind, in, and under any items in these places.
- Remove cushions from couches and chairs, and check down the sides and back of the furniture.
- Check the underside of furniture and beds for any holes through which a creature could climb inside the furniture/bed.
- Check inside any boxes you have around the house, including tissue boxes.
- Look inside any backpacks, purses, or other bags.
- Look in boots and shoes, or any other small, dark hiding places you can think of.
- Check the undersides and backs of appliances for holes your pet could have climbed into.
- Make sure cage is left open, and place favorite treat or food around and in cage.
- Place foil around the room (or crinkly plastic) in potential hiding places so you can hear your pet moving around.
- Sprinkle some flour on the floor in areas where you suspect your pet might be hiding - you might get a set of footprints to help you.
Tips:
- Don't discount a hiding place because you think it is too small or inaccessible - snakes, lizards and even small mammals can fit through surprisingly small spaces.
- If your pet is nocturnal, consider putting out its favorite treat after dark (e.g. in the cage), turning out the lights, and waiting.
- Many pets do consider their cage their home, and will return to it given the chance. Make sure your home is safe, and that your pet can get some food and water if they have been missing for longer than 12-24 hrs.
What You Need To Know About Keeping Large Constrictors
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| Boa |
diverse group of snakes. There are several varieties kept as pets; some are okay for beginners and some definitely are not. These snakes share a common trait of killing their prey by suffocation, but there are significant differences in habitat, natural history and care requirements. While the terms boa and python often bring to mind large killer snakes, this is not the whole picture. While there are large and potentially dangerous snakes in this group (more on this later), smaller docile members of the family can actually make quite engaging pets. Allowing for differences between individuals, some are quite curious, active and easily tamed.
Unfortunately, there have been a number of cases where large pythons have caused serious injury and even death to humans - some children and some adults. These have happened with very large constricting snakes, and are certainly isolated events. However, the risks are there, and proper education and precautions are necessary to prevent tragic incidents. A length of eight feet is often recognized as a safety threshold - any snake that reaches an adult length of more than eight feet requires a very secure enclosure and experts often recommended that two people be present to handle such large snakes. In fact, is is a good idea to have a person for for each 4 feet of snake; for example, 3 people to handle a 12 foot snake and 4 people for a 16 foot snake. Feeding is a vulnerable time for owners of large snakes and it is recommended that there at least be other people present when feeding to assist if necessary (most of these snakes only eat once every 10-14 days or less). Burmese pythons are generally gentle but are extremely large and powerful snakes, and have been involved in fatal incidents. Red tailed boas (commonly known as boa constrictors) are not as large but are still powerful and not recommended for beginners. Reticulated pythons grow very large and have a reputation for nasty temperaments, and if kept at all are only suitable for very experienced handlers. Recommended reading includes:
- AFH on Large Constrictors - guidelines published by the American Federation of Herpetoculturalists on the keeping of large constrictors.
- Handling Large Constrictors - by Lenny Flank, precautions to take when keeping large constricting snakes. Good advice.
Other important considerations, other than size, include the source and the needs of the animals. Captive bred snakes are preferred over wild caught - they are usually more tame, less nervous, less stressed and less diseased. It may also be easier to feed them, especially killed prey. The nervousness factor becomes increasingly important as the size of the snake increases - it is much safer to have a tame, docile python at feeding time. The tree pythons and boas tend to have stricter needs for housing and humidity/environmental control, so can be more of a challenge than the terrestrial species. The best contricting snake for beginners is the ball python. These are somewhat notorious for refusing to feed in captivity: ensure your snake is captive bred and if possible ask the seller to demonstrate how it feeds. Other important things to consider: the longevity of the snake (for example a healthy ball python can be expected to live 30-40 years) and who will care for your snake if you must go away (snake sitters can be hard to find).
There is a significant variation in the care and housing arrangements between the different species so readers should seek out specific care information for each species. All these snakes are carnivores, and most experts recommend that killed prey be fed. Not only is it easier on the owner but there is no risk of the snake being bitten or otherwise injured by the prey (a mouse or rat can inflict significant injury on a snake if given a chance).
Finally, an important disease of boids: inclusion body disease. This is a virus which is fatal in pythons and boas who exhibit symptoms. It is impossible to tell for certain if a snake has been exposed (and some snakes are asymptomatic carriers) and it can take months for signs to appear. Do not buy an apparently unhealthy snake, and if you have snakes at home already, quarantine new arrival for a minimum 3-6 months (and always be sure to wash hands between handling snakes).
