Signs a Snake is About to Shed its Skin
Some clues that your snake is about to shed
There are many problems that can contribute to shedding problems or incomplete sheds, but the most common problem in inadequate humidity levels. Other factors include skin infections, injuries to the skin (including old scars), parasites, malnutrition, and inadequate heating or lighting. For this reason, if incomplete shedding is a problem, it is a good idea to consult with a reptile veterinarian to rule out medical causes. It is always important to make sure you are providing adequate humidity levels to prevent shedding problems, but remember that too much humidity can cause other problems. Find out the ideal humidity for whatever species you are keeping, and get a hygrometer to make sure you are keeping the humidity in the proper range for your reptile. As well, make sure you are providing proper temperature ranges, lighting (e.g. quality UVB lamps for species that need them), and an ideal diet.
Shedding Problems in Snakes
Snakes generally shed their skins in a complete sheet, starting at the nose and working down to the tail (their skin comes off a bit like a sock being turned inside out as it is removed). When there are problems with shedding, the shed skin is not complete and the skin comes off in patches (and in some areas the skin may not come off at all). Retained eye caps, where the protective scale that covers they eye is not shed with the skin, may also be a problem.
For a snake having problems with shedding, you can try soaking the snake in a tub of warm water a few times a day. Make sure the water covers the body but is not too deep or your snake may drown, and supervise your snake during the soak. Wrapping your snake in warm wet towels may also work as the friction from the towels as your snake moves around may help remove the skin; some keepers place snakes with shedding difficulties in a wet cloth bag (such a pillowcase) for a few hours. Providing a humidity hide is also a good way to give a shedding snake access to a higher humidity area. For arboreal snakes, try regularly misting.
What Are Retained Eye Caps?
Snakes do not have eyelids; instead they have specially adapted scales over their eyes called eye caps (also known as spectacles). These are normally shed along with the skin during each shed cycle, but sometimes they do not shed properly -- a condition called retained eye caps.
Causes of Retained Eye Caps
A common cause of retained eye caps is insufficient humidity or other husbandry issues that contribute to shedding problems. However, snake mites or infections of the eye or surrounding tissues may also contribute.
Determining if Your Snake Has Retained Eye Caps
First, always examine the shed skin from your snake. The eye caps should be shed along with the skin, which means there should be no holes where they eyes were. If the eye caps were are not present on the shed skin, it's possible they fell away separately, but you should have a close look at your snake's eyes as they eye caps may still be on your snake. Normally snakes have clear eyes, except for a short period prior to shedding where they turn a milky blue color. If the eye caps are not shed, your snake may appear to have cloudy or foggy eyes. However, the appearance of eyes with retained eye caps is variable, and not all abnormal looking eyes have retained eye caps, so when in doubt consult a veterinarian. For a detailed explanation of detecting retained eye caps.
If Your Snake has Retained Eye Caps
There are mixed opinions in the herp community about the necessity of removing retained eye caps (as opposed to leaving them to come off with the next shed); your best bet is consult with your reptile veterinarian. Usually an attempt is made to remove retained eye caps, as they could potentially impair your snake's vision (which may make it nervous, aggressive, or reluctant to feed). Certainly, eye caps that are retained through subsequent sheds need veterinary attention.
If the eye caps are retained, you must re-evaluate your husbandry methods, particularly humidity levels. Your vet can check your snake for other possible causes of retained eye caps as well.
Removing Retained Eye Caps
It is best to get the help of a reptile veterinarian to remove the eye caps, as it is important not to do anything that could damage your snake's eyes. Soaking the snake in warm (not too hot) water a couple of times a day (e.g. just deep enough to cover your snake's body, and supervise to prevent drowning) may help the eye caps come off. However, if this isn't successful after a day or two, a trip to the vet is in order. You will find different methods described online for removing retained eye caps, but I don't recommend trying this yourself, at least until have experience with it, due to the risks of damaging the eye.
Reference and Recommended Reading:
Reptile Eye Care Issues by Stephen L. Barten, DVM.
What Are Retained Eye Caps?
Snakes do not have eyelids; instead they have specially adapted scales over their eyes called eye caps (also known as spectacles). These are normally shed along with the skin during each shed cycle, but sometimes they do not shed properly -- a condition called retained eye caps.
Causes of Retained Eye Caps
A common cause of retained eye caps is insufficient humidity or other husbandry issues that contribute to shedding problems. However, snake mites or infections of the eye or surrounding tissues may also contribute.
Determining if Your Snake Has Retained Eye Caps
First, always examine the shed skin from your snake. The eye caps should be shed along with the skin, which means there should be no holes where they eyes were. If the eye caps were are not present on the shed skin, it's possible they fell away separately, but you should have a close look at your snake's eyes as they eye caps may still be on your snake. Normally snakes have clear eyes, except for a short period prior to shedding where they turn a milky blue color. If the eye caps are not shed, your snake may appear to have cloudy or foggy eyes. However, the appearance of eyes with retained eye caps is variable, and not all abnormal looking eyes have retained eye caps, so when in doubt consult a veterinarian. For a detailed explanation of detecting retained eye caps.
If Your Snake has Retained Eye Caps
There are mixed opinions in the herp community about the necessity of removing retained eye caps (as opposed to leaving them to come off with the next shed); your best bet is consult with your reptile veterinarian. Usually an attempt is made to remove retained eye caps, as they could potentially impair your snake's vision (which may make it nervous, aggressive, or reluctant to feed). Certainly, eye caps that are retained through subsequent sheds need veterinary attention.
If the eye caps are retained, you must re-evaluate your husbandry methods, particularly humidity levels. Your vet can check your snake for other possible causes of retained eye caps as well.
Removing Retained Eye Caps
It is best to get the help of a reptile veterinarian to remove the eye caps, as it is important not to do anything that could damage your snake's eyes. Soaking the snake in warm (not too hot) water a couple of times a day (e.g. just deep enough to cover your snake's body, and supervise to prevent drowning) may help the eye caps come off. However, if this isn't successful after a day or two, a trip to the vet is in order. You will find different methods described online for removing retained eye caps, but I don't recommend trying this yourself, at least until have experience with it, due to the risks of damaging the eye.
Reference and Recommended Reading:
Reptile Eye Care Issues by Stephen L. Barten, DVM.
How to Make a Humidity Hide Box
A simple humidity box can help reptiles with shedding and provide extra humidity
A ball python inside a humidity hide at Reptile World in Drumheller, AB |
A humidity hide box can serve as a way to boost humidity for reptiles, and can help with shedding problems. They are a great addition to the vivarium for reptiles that like higher humidity because they provide a micro-climate with extra humidity that your reptile can get in and out of as they need it.
Homemade Humidity Hide
An easy home made humidity hide can be made from a plastic box of some sort (with a lid) and a substrate that can hold moisture. Plastic storage containers work well as you can choose from a wide variety of sizes to suit your reptile. Simply cut a hole in the side or lid just large enough for your reptile to comfortably get in and out of the box (file or sand away any rough edges). Then, fill the bottom of the container with a moisture-holding substrate. Sphagnum moss is a good choice, but you can also use paper towels (easy to use and maintain), or a reptile substrate such as Bed-a-Beast. Make sure the substrate is always damp - not too damp, but damp enough to make sure the hide provides a localized area of very high humidity.
Homemade Humidity Hide
An easy home made humidity hide can be made from a plastic box of some sort (with a lid) and a substrate that can hold moisture. Plastic storage containers work well as you can choose from a wide variety of sizes to suit your reptile. Simply cut a hole in the side or lid just large enough for your reptile to comfortably get in and out of the box (file or sand away any rough edges). Then, fill the bottom of the container with a moisture-holding substrate. Sphagnum moss is a good choice, but you can also use paper towels (easy to use and maintain), or a reptile substrate such as Bed-a-Beast. Make sure the substrate is always damp - not too damp, but damp enough to make sure the hide provides a localized area of very high humidity.
Store-Bought Humidity Hides
You can also buy humidity hides such as Zoo Med's Repti Shelter (compare prices). These tend to be more expensive but are quite attractive and natural looking, and come in a variety of sizes. They should be set up with a damp substrate just like the homemade hides.
You can also buy humidity hides such as Zoo Med's Repti Shelter (compare prices). These tend to be more expensive but are quite attractive and natural looking, and come in a variety of sizes. They should be set up with a damp substrate just like the homemade hides.